By Rachel Barbara

“Telluride, City of Gold. 12 miles – 2 hours.”

That’s what the sign reads on the approach to Telluride via the infamous Black Bear Pass jeep road. The main route into this historic mining town doesn’t require four-wheel-drive skills, but travelers will want to slow down and look around. Just ask Oprah, Tom Cruise or any one of the handful of Hollywood stars who have vacation homes in Telluride. Views of the rushing San Miguel River unfold as you make your way into town, which is boxed in by the San Juan Mountains.

Early risers should sample the locally-roasted coffee at Between the Covers, and for homemade bagels or a post-hike pizza fix, visit Baked in Telluride. Smugglers and La Cocina de Luz are ideal for a mellow patio lunch. Fine dining abounds and the bar scene bumps till 2 a.m. Overall, it’s hard to go wrong in a town with no chain restaurants. Old buildings house art galleries and antiques, so be sure to rest up for shopping.

In contrast to Telluride’s historical feel, the town of Mountain Village offers a modern resort atmosphere, with ski-in/ski-out Telluride vacation rentals, a conference center and a central shopping/dining area. Vacation homes are the best deal for large groups and many offer easy mountain access. Mountain Village is located on the ski mountain above Telluride, and the towns are connected by a free gondola.

Expert skiers and riders enjoy the resort’s abundance of steep and hike-to terrain; beginners appreciate the 4.6-mile Galloping Goose and other green runs nestled around the Sunshine chair (lift 10). For the ultimate in San Juan powder stashes, try helicopter skiing with Helitrax.

Telluride SlopeStyle is the gear shop for those seeking high-performance snowboards and rentals, while the Boot Doctors specializes in custom boot fitting and stance alignment. Both have locations in Telluride and Mountain Village.

For a family day on the snow, bring the kids to Telluride Town Park and the sled spot on Firecracker Hill. Three kilometers of cross-country ski trails wind through this downtown park, and an outdoor ice rink is the perfect place to soak up winter sunshine. Ski, skate and sled rentals are available from the Nordic Center. Adventurers can try ice climbing with the San Juan Outdoor School or an overnight dogsled trek with Winter Moon Sled Dog Adventures.

By summer, Telluride is a jeeper’s paradise. Visit ghost towns and meadows of waist-high wildflowers with Dave’s Mountain Tours. Telluride Outside offers guided rafting, fishing and mountain bike trips, and the Telluride Hiking Guide features over 90 self-guided trails. Summer is also festival season; check events at visittelluride.com. Celebrate films, blues, brews and mushrooms, or learn what Telluride was like without VIP passes during July’s Nothing Festival.

Once you’re in town, remember to slow down. Take time to meet the locals, because there’s a good chance you’ll be back here often.